The Best Miniature Painting Brushes for 2025

It’s a tale as old as time: a young Padawan, full of hope, decides to invest in their first “good” brush. They’ve heard whispers of the “Kolinsky Sable” and the “Winsor & Newton.” They buy one, treat it like a holy relic… for the first ten minutes.

Soon, he’s rinsing it in the same murky water he’s been using for an hour. He absentmindedly leaves it sitting tip-down in the cup. The next day, he finds the brush tip has split, curled, and looks like a worn-out witch broom. He’s just ruined a $25 brush.

That Padawan was me. Don’t be like me…

The anxiety of wasting money on brushes is real. But here’s the secret: 90% of the time, it’s not the brush. It’s how we use it (a bit cliché, but true). This guide is for everyone who’s tired of their tools dying. We’re not just listing the best brushes for 2025. We’re going to show you the simple habits that will make your investment last for years, not just a few sessions.

Our Brush Picks for Your Arsenal: Tier List

We’ve broken our recommendations down into the three categories you actually need: the high-precision “Workhorse,” the durable “Utility” brush, and the specialist “Drybrush.”

The Primary Workhorse Brush (Your “S-Tier”)

This is your hero. Your scalpel. This is the brush you invest in for details, blending, and layering. It’s almost always a Kolinsky Sable, which has a natural hair structure that holds a razor-sharp point and a large “belly” to keep paint flowing.

Winsor & Newton Series 7 (Size 1 or 2): The classic. This is the brush most professionals swear by. It’s a precision instrument known for its perfect “snap” (it springs back to a point).

Raphael 8404 (Size 2): The reservoir. Many painters prefer the Raphael. Its belly is slightly larger and rounder, holding even more paint, which makes it an absolute dream for blending.

Rosemary & Co. Series 33 (Size 2): The pro’s choice. A favorite of many Golden Demon winners, these are often seen as a high-performance, slightly more affordable alternative to W&N. They have a fantastic point and great flow.

Expert Tip: The ‘Tiny Brush’ Myth

We have to stop this myth. You do not need a “000” brush to paint eyes. In fact, it’s the worst brush for the job. Why? That tiny brush holds no paint. The paint dries on the bristles in seconds, ruining the tip and giving you chalky, lumpy results.

The professional’s choice is a Size 1 or 2 Kolinsky. Its large belly keeps the tip hydrated, allowing you to use that razor-sharp point for 5-10 minutes. It gives you better detail results and the brush lasts 10x longer.

A Note on Price: The ‘ROI’ of a Good Brush

Let’s talk about the $25 price tag. It feels expensive. But here’s the real math:

That $25 Kolinsky brush, paired with an $8 puck of Master’s Brush Cleaner, is a $33 ‘Painting System’ that will last you for years. Those cheap $7 synthetic brushes you replace every month? That’s over $80 a year.

The brush soap is not optional. It’s the cheap ‘insurance policy’ that protects your expensive tool. Don’t buy the “S-Tier” brush if you won’t buy the soap.

Utility & Base Coating Brushes (Your “Beaters”)

This is your ‘B’ team, and they are just as important. These are the durable synthetic brushes you will abuse. You use them for base coating, mixing paint, applying washes, and (most importantly) painting with metallics. Never use your good sable for metallics—the flakes will shred it.

Citadel Medium Base Brush: A classic for a reason. It’s a robust, no-nonsense brush designed to slather paint on smoothly and take a beating.

The Army Painter Hobby: Basecoating Brush: A durable, large brush with soft bristles. This is perfect for quickly and evenly base coating larger monsters or vehicles.

Da Vinci Nova Series 1570: If you want a “premium” synthetic, this is it. Da Vinci is a respected German brand, and these hold a better point than most synthetics.

Golden Maple Detail Brush Set: This is your bulk-buy option. You get a whole set for a low price. Use them for tasks you know will kill a brush—mixing, applying texture paste, etc.

Dedicated Drybrushing Brushes

Drybrushing is a brutal technique that requires a special tool. It will destroy a normal brush. These brushes are designed to have stiff, densely packed bristles.

Makeup Brushes: The DIY hack. A cheap, dome-shaped makeup brush from any cosmetics aisle is still one of the best tools for the job. They are soft, dense, and cost almost nothing.

Artis Opus Series D: This is the “S-Tier” of drybrushing. These are premium, dome-shaped brushes that give an incredibly soft, airbrush-like blend. For professionals.

The Army Painter Masterclass Drybrush Set: The best value. This purpose-built set gives you three different sizes of dome-shaped brushes that are perfect for the job without the premium price tag.

How to Not Kill Your New Brush: The 5 Golden Rules

You bought your investment brush. Great. Now, here’s how you make it last.

1. The Ferrule is Lava.

The “ferrule” is the metal sleeve. It’s where good brushes go to die. Never ever let paint get up into it. Only load your brush about halfway up the bristles. Once the paint dries in there, it forces the bristles apart from the inside. Game over.

2. Don’t Stab, Pull.

We all do it. We “stab” our brushes into tiny details like eye sockets. This wrecks the tip and forces paint deep into the ferrule (see rule #1). Instead, learn to use a “pulling” stroke. Let the sharp point glide over the detail.

3. Rinsing is Not Cleaning.

Swishing your brush in your water cup doesn’t get all the paint out. After every single session, clean your brush with a dedicated soap (like The Master’s). It removes the hidden pigment and acrylic binder, then conditions the natural hairs.

4. Use Your “Beater” Brush.

Your $25 Kolinsky is a scalpel. Don’t use it for shovel-work. Use your cheap synthetic “beater” brush for mixing paint, applying texture paste, or slathering on washes.

5. Never Dry Tip-Up.

This is the silent killer. When you leave your brush to dry, tip-up in your cup, water runs down into the ferrule and dissolves the glue. Store your brushes horizontally or in a tip-down rack.

It’s a Tool, Not a Magic Wand

In the end, the ‘best’ brush isn’t just an expensive tool—it’s a tool you know how to care for. Pair a good brush with these simple habits, and you’ll spend less time buying replacements and more time painting incredible minis.

Loot Studios can help you paint highly detailed minis, statues, and props. Choose your favorite bundle from our previous releases or sign up for Fantasy or Sci-Fi to receive a new bundle every month. You can also check out some tips on our YouTube Channel.